Montirius "Le Cadet" VdP 2006

This is a popular wine, though not one I often choose myself. But I promised the chaps at Montirius I would try the new 2006 vintage when it came in, and I was glad I did. It’s not too full-bodied and has 13% alcohol, which makes it seem lightish in comparison with the other mustangs: Vacqueyras, Gigondas, in the Montirius paddock. The Rhonish red fruit has a decided… breadth to it, somewhere near the herbs-in-a-farmyard point on the pongometer, and this intimation of guts (did you know what those biodynamic growers get up to?) quartz-filled cow horns is what makes it more interesting and altogether a better thing to drink than factory Cotes du Rhone or, honestly, many a loveless price-point Chateauneuf du Pape. I’m looking forward to meeting the Saurels at Vinisud, the big annual wine fair, held in Montpellier next month. Here’s someone else’s point of view.